A frequently asked question about palm tree care and growing palm trees is how to fertilize palms.  This topic can be considered either quite simple or quite complicated depending on how sophisticated you want to be regarding the subject. A simple approach would be to fertilize three times a year with a 3 month slow release fertilizer with microelements, following the directions on the bag. A more complicated viewpoint would compare quick release, slow release, soluble, organic, all the different microelements, the exact NPK ratio, optimal feeding frequencies, foliar sprays, and differences between manufactured brands. This is not the appropriate time for a lengthy discussion of these topics, but I would recommend members read the Horticultural Issue of the I.P.S. journal Palms, April 1999 for a more “in depth” discussion. Please note that there are certainly different opinions on the topic. However, I can summarize with a few “Do’s” and “Don’ts” below.

“Do’s”:

• Read the directions on the bag.
• Fertilize only when the garden or container soil is moist, especially when using a quick release material.
• Water the garden or container quite thoroughly after fertilizing.
• When growing palm trees, try to under-fertilize rather than over-fertilizer. Under-fertilized plants just don’t grow as fast; over-fertilized them and they may die.
• Pick a fertilizer with an approximate 3:1:3 NPK ratio. Previous opinion was to use a 3:1:2 ratio, but more recent opinions are to use the higher potassium fertilizers. A 15:5:15 ratio would be ideal. The company “Scotts” has just released what appears to be an ideal palm fertilizer with microelements, magnesium and calcium.
• Consider buying a slow release fertilizer. It is more expensive but probably better for the plants and less labor intensive.
• Buy a fertilizer with supplemental magnesium and calcium. As presented at the Palm Symposium in Miami in June, 1999, these two elements are very important.
• Buy a fertilizer with ample microelements. Lack of these causes all sorts of growth maladies.  When planting palm trees, avoid application of separate microelements immediately as these too can cause burn.
• Do consider organic fertilizers if that is your preference. Use of items such as blood meal, bone meal, fish emulsion, and manure can be successful.
• Fertilize completely around the plant, distributing the granules over the entire root distribution area (approximately the mid-day shadow of the plant). Because of the tubular histology of the palm’s vascular structures, lateral transfer of nutrition in the palm’s trunk may be minimal.
• Consider working the fertilizer into the soil if possible.
• Add fertilizer to organic top-dressings (i.e. wood shavings) over the garden. These materials typically consume nitrogen during their breakdown. Many people rake the garden of debris, apply their fertilizer, and finish with a top dressing.  many growers use top dressings of organic material as a regular part of their palm tree care.
• Find a fertilizer that works well for you and stick with it. Fertilzing is one of the most important aspects of palm tree care and growers should stick to a system that works for them.
• Salt test your soil in container plants if you see growth problems. Salts can build up easily in containers if you fertilize heavily and water infrequently (i.e. house plants).
• Do leach your containers with multiple heavy waterings if salt buildup is a problem.
• Consider using combinations of different fertilizers such as a small amount of quick release, some organic fertilizer (blood meal) and a slow release. Fine tune such combinations for optimal results.
• Consider utilizing an injector and soluble fertilizer for a greenhouse operation. This gives the opportunity to give very dilute applications (less risk of burn) at more frequent intervals, thus optimizing growth.
• Consider fertilizing in the winter as well. This is controversial. The theory is that the plants can absorb elements needed to maintain strength during cold weather and be prepared for spring growth when the weather warms. Opponents would say it encourages winter growth of vulnerable new leaves.
• Do consider blood meal for chronically “anemic” plants that appear yellow or faded when sun-exposure is not considered to be the problem. This may be secondary to nitrogen or iron deficiency, and this can be remedied by blood meal.
• Do consider putting a conservative amount of a 6 month slow release fertilizer directly into your soil if you are making up your own soil blend. Also remember dolomite to raise the pH resulting from high acid-containing organic materials.
  
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